Shaw + Smith and Mitolo in Vinography

March 31st, 2010

Alder Yarrow of Vinography is on the ground tasting his way through South Australia, running into “some wines that have totally redefined my understanding of what Australian wine is, and can be.” Two of the regional champions he’s singled out are Shaw + Smith and Mitolo. The wines below are recent releases that won’t be available in the US for a while, but the notes give a sense as to the sheer quality being attained these days in the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale.

Shaw + Smith “M3″ Chardonnay 2008
“Light greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells beautifully of lemon zest and cold cream with hints of herbal qualities. In the mouth the wine has a wonderful, stony mineral quality with lemon curd and cold cream touched with sourdough toast with butter. Perfectly balanced and really gorgeous, this is an exceptionally well made wine, and one of the better Chardonnays I’ve had from Australia.” 9-9.5/10 Vinography

Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
“Made entirely from grapes dried in the style of Amarone. Dark garnet in the glass this wine has a nose of dried black cherry and chocolate. In the mouth wonderfully aggressive tannins wrap around black cherry and chocolate flavors with notes of leather that linger in the finish. Intense and interesting. And for being made from dried grapes, quite bright.” 9/10 Vinography


2009 Bordeaux – Right Bank Edition

March 30th, 2010

James Suckling of the Wine Spectator is on the ground tasting the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux, and he is deeply impressed with the quality coming out of the Right Bank. Says Suckling,

“That’s what is so impressive with the vintage. Apparently, many of the young wines are the most concentrated ever from their respective wineries, yet the young reds remain fresh and balanced. I keep hearing about the concentration levels of polyphenolic compounds, or tannins, being off the charts. Winemakers say they are 88, or 95, or whatever. It doesn’t mean that much to me. But it does mean that the 2009s, in many cases, are packed with ripe tannins, yet they are balanced and remain fresh.”

2009 is shaping up to be one of the best vintages of the decade, with powerful, concentrated wines that will likely be long-lived. James’ initial reviews below speak for themselves.

Château  Pétrus 2009
“What a nose this has. I close my eyes when I smell this, and I see perfectly ripe Merlot grapes crushed in the vats. Blackberry, mineral, black licorice, coffee bean and chocolate lead to a full body, with round yet firm tannins and beautiful fruit. The luxurious finish offers a cashmere texture and gorgeous fruit. Rich and subtle.97-100 Wine Sepctator

Château Providence 2009
“Offers fabulous aromas of crushed blackberry and blueberry, with lightly roasted coffee bean and black olive. Full-bodied, delivering polished, chewy tannins and a long, juicy finish. Rich and powerful. Blockbuster. Roasted fruit on this. Best ever from here?” 95-98 Wine Sepctator

Château La Serre 2009
“Blueberry, blackberry and mineral aromas follow through to a full body, with fine tannins and a juicy, chocolate finish, turning velvety and beautiful.” 90-93 Wine Sepctator


Blending Aszú at Disznókő

March 29th, 2010

Christian Seely, Managing Director of the AXA properties, was at a snow-blanketed Disznókő recently to participate in the blending of the 2007 Aszú wines, and has a great post (and great photos) up on his blog. The Aszú wines of Tokaj are some of the greatest sweet wines on earth, made by combining fresh, dry wines with shriveled and (often) heavily botrytized grapes, the Aszú “paste”. After long aging in barrel, the final blends for the 5 Puttonyos and 6 Puttonyos are assembled by Christian and the team at Disznókő, led by winemaker László Mészáros. The 2007 vintage yielded very rich, ripe, unctuous wines that are already showing their seductive side.

Ferrer Bobet is Spain’s Top Wine

March 26th, 2010

The 2005 Ferrer Bobet is one of Priorat’s most compelling wines, enough so that both Sibaritas and El Mundo, two of Spain’s leading publications, declared it their wine of the year. Writes Sibaritas (our translation):

“Above all the freshness seduced the judges of Sibaritas, which set it apart from the majority of reds from Priorat, which are excessively ripe and made to be big wines. On the contrary, the Ferrer Bobet 2005 balanced ripeness with freshness, nobility with succulence, and passion with elegance. Not bad for a debut…”

A PDF of the El Mundo article is here, and the Sibaritas cover is below:

A Vintage to Remember: 2009 Bordeaux

March 26th, 2010

We’re gearing up for the en primeur campaign for 2009 Bordeaux next month, and the initial reviews coming out are extremely promising. James Suckling of the Wine Spectator is on the ground in Bordeaux, and has the first look at some of the region’s top wines. On the Right Bank:

Some châteaus obviously got it completely right. Among them today were the 2009 wines of Cheval-Blanc, Pétrus, Ausone, and La Fleur-Pétrus, among others. And many others got it very, very close to right. I tasted a lot of excellent wines today.

And on the Left Bank:

The 2009 Cos-d’Estournel was mind-blowing, with masses of unctuous fruit, big and powerful fruit-coated tannins, and a fresh finish. I thought of Harlan or Colgin when I first put my nose in the glass, but then it was full-throttle Bordeaux on the palate, with powerful yet polished tannins and a long, long, balanced finish. This was obviously the fruit-forward school.

Château Margaux, on the other hand, featured more of the reserved, classic claret approach. It was quiet and held back on the nose and palate at first, with crystal-clear fruit and perfumes, but as I tasted the wine, it grew in my mouth, with layers of ultrafine tannins that lasted for minutes on the finish. “On paper, the 2009 is the most powerful wine that we have ever made, even more so than the 2005,” said Paul Pontailler, the technical director for the first-growth, who was emphasizing how the tannin extract in his 2009 was the highest ever. “At the same time, our 2009 has the mark of our terroir, with so much power, yet it maintains a wonderful softness and balance.”

James’ initial reviews are below the jump.

Read the rest of this entry »

Errazuriz Estate Sauvignon Blanc on Winophilia

March 26th, 2010

International Wine Cellar’s new blog Winophilia has an awesome post by Josh Raynolds up on the development of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile, and singles the Errazuriz Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009 as a particularly good value.

Bordeaux-styled cabernet sauvignons first put Chile on the map for American wine lovers in the late 1970s, but the most intriguing wines being made there now, for my money, are fresh, unoaked sauvignon blancs that retail for around $10.

The full article is here. And Josh isn’t the only one singling the Estate Sauvignon out for value. Wine & Spirits gave the wine 91 points just this year.

“Scents of herbs and fresh-cut grass appear in the forefront, while flavors of tart white fruit deepen and linger in the background. This is juicy and full of vitality, a sauvignon made for ceviche.” 91 Wine & Spirits

That’s a whole lot to say about a wine that sells for $11 on the shelf, and cement’s Errazuriz’ position as Chile’s quality—and value—leader.

Interview with Mitolo’s Frank and Ben

March 24th, 2010

Canada’s Lifford Wine Agency sits down with Frank Mitolo and Ben Glaetzer of Mitolo, where Frank explains his G.A.M. and Ben details the repasso, amarone style of the Serpico.

Wine of the Week: Interview with Mitolo from Lifford Wine Agency on Vimeo.

M3 Chardonnay at Lifford Wine Agency

March 24th, 2010

Lifford Wine Agency in Canada has a great little video on the Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay, explaining all the reasons this wine is one of the benchmarks for Aussie whites. The cool climate of the Adelaide Hills leaves this wine with lots of fresh acidity to balance its exotic stone fruit and tropical notes, all rounded out by Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith’s subtle use of oak.

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay from Lifford Wine Agency on Vimeo.

Examiner.com Profiles Montelena

March 24th, 2010

Examiner.com‘s Laird Durham has a great profile of Chateau Montelena and the Paris Tasting, including this choice quote from Bo Barrett on making the Chardonnay:

“It’s a minimalist type of wine,” Bo says. “And that is hard to do,”   He explains. ”You have to be good at all three aspects of wine making: artistic, farming, and science, including microbiology. Too artistic and you make flaky wine. Too much science and the wine is boring. Farming is hard work. Only dairy farming is harder. We get to take Christmas off, cows don’t.”

Full article is here.

Counter Interview with Richard Sanford, Part. 2

March 24th, 2010

America’s Pinot Pioneer explains his wines for Counter Wine Bar and discusses his affinity for making Burgundy-style wines in the Santa Rita Hills. Great stuff!