Steve Heimoff’s tour of the Central Coast continues with an appreciation of Santa Barbara Chardonnay. It seems like you can now find Chardonnay from everywhere in the world; truly great Chardonnay, however, takes some pretty specific conditions.
Santa Barbera is one of the few places in California where the weather is just right: just warm enough to allow the grapes to ripen fully but slowly, just cool enough to preserve that bracing acidity, just wet enough to prevent stress to the vine, and just dry enough in the fall to allow for selective harvesting. Add to that a fantastic chalky subsoil, and you’ve got the recipe for some exceptional wines.
As Heimoff says:
“Santa Barbara County is one of California’s great Chardonnay areas and a case can be made that it is the greatest. Certainly there’s a consistency of style. The wines always are acidic; that goes without saying. Acidity is one of the touchstones of a great wine, especially a white one, and super-especially when the fruit is as ripe as it tends to get in Santa Barbara. The reason the fruit gets so ripe is because the growing season is incredibly long. Budbreak begins earlier than in the North Coast, and harvest can extend as long and leisurely as the grower wants. It doesn’t rain much down here, and such rains as do fall usually wait until November. That means the grapes can hang, hang, hang until they rid themselves of all green flavors and develop marvelously fruity ones. To my palate the fruits tend toward pineapples, Meyer lemons and limes, but that’s over-simplifying. The pineapples often have a grilled quality, as if they’d been on a skewer barbecued over hot red oak. The Meyer lemons have an intense, pie-filling quality, while the limes likewise have a pastry taste, like the Key lime pies I used to bring home with me when my parents lived in Florida.”
Among Steve’s favorites is Alma Rosa’s 2008 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County, an Editor’s Choice in Wine Enthusiast. And at an SRP of $19.99, it’s a great value, too.
