Vintus

From bucking tradition and pursuing the “new Barolo” to staking an emphatic claim in the potential of Valmaggiore in Roero, the Sandrones have shown themselves to be as fiercely individualistic as they come. Their latest project is very much in that vein, as they attempt to take their new winery, located at the base of Cannbi Boschis on the outskirts of Barolo, completely off the grid.

When we visited the winery in December 2008, they had already started drawing from their own water supply, and now they have taken another large step towards independence. The recently installed solar panels will allow the winery so produce 30% of its own electricity, a step that will allow them to greatly reduce their carbon footprint while ensuring uninterrupted operations all year round.

For a peak inside the Sandrone winery, check out Matthew Gavin Frank’s memoir, Barolo. Frank got serious about food a few years back and wound up in Barolo helping with Sandrone’s 2008 vintage. The tales he spins about the characters of Piedmont are lively and engaging; check out excerpts from the book here and here.

The cherry blossoms are in ful regalia in Washington, DC, now, and The Washington Examiner‘s Scott Greenberg is rolling into spring by lightening up his red wine selections. Among his choices is Sandrone‘s delicious Dolcetto d’Alba, offering just enough sweetness and grip for the season.

“Dolcetto wines are an oft-forgotten variety from the Piedmont region of Italy that produces wines that are soft and fruity and ready to drink when released. They’re perfect for picnic lunch or lazy afternoon. The 2007 Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba is a great choice to pair with lighter pasta dishes or grilled chicken and pork. The nose has these great aromas of wild flowers and dark plums. Mouthwatering flavors of dark raspberry and red plums are accented by bright acidity up front and notes of plush red cherries on the finish.”

Full article is here.

There are few producers who have achieved a certain level of success in Barolo (part of the Langhe region) and make Nebbiolo wines in the Roero region, and fewer producers still who succeed at the highest levels in both regions. When you sit down with the Sandrone family, however, you may well end up spending more time discussing their section in the Valmaggiore vineyard in the Roero than the vineyards that bear the fruit for their legendary Barolos, Le Vigne and Cannubi Boschis.

In such a discussion, you will learn two things very quickly. The first is that Luciano Sandrone loves this area, and has kept this affection for four decades. In the 1970s, when at Marchese di Barolo, he worked in the Valmaggiore vineyard and first grew excited about the area and quality potential he saw. Luciano also loves that there is still quite a bit of nearby forest remaining, and therefore biodiversity, and not every inch has been planted over to vineyards.

Secondly, you learn that Valmaggiore, arguably the most prestigious vineyard in the Roero, will never produce a Barolo – and it shouldn’t! Only 15 miles from the Barolo district, the area is consistently warmer, and Valmaggiore is planted on soils that are much sandier than those in Barolo. The result? Sandrone’s Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba has wonderful aromatics and a balanced purity, but stop thinking of Barolo when you drink this wine and let the beautiful, deep fruit wash over you. The wine has signature ripe red fruit and licorice notes, complemented by floral, earth and spice notes beautifully held in frame by a body that has a certain roundness, but is totally in balance with the structure provided by its noticeable acidity and tannins. And, ultimately, because Valmaggiore is not Barolo, the Sandrone Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba is typically a third to a quarter the price of the Sandrone Barolos.

The incredibly steep bowl of Valmaggiore.

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