Vintus

Chambolle-Musigny "Les Hauts Doix", Premier Cru

"Les Haut Doix" is a small vineyard between Les Charmes and Les Amoureuses.  It sits within "Les Amoureuses" before the road to Les Charmes, but the wines show more acidity and fresh fruit than Les Amoureuses.  It is crisper, less spicy, with fruit that is less ripe in character than "Les Amoureuses".  There is less drainage in this vineyard, and the soil is more viscous.

• 2009 Vintage

   There is more talk and interest about 2009 in Burgundy than in any vintage since 2005.  Mounir Saouma has warned us to be careful, however.  He loves this vintage, and in fact believes it is the greatest he has seen in his two decades in Burgundy.   He believes the fruit had everything from the start, and the wines from the beginning were healthy and beautifully balanced.  The major issue was to understand and respect the wines, and avoid working them, since they already had everything they needed in superb balance.  Overly working the wines, he believes, resulted in a loss of freshness and delicacy.

    2009 is the first vintage at Lucien Le Moine that Mounir did not do any lees stirring whatsoever, and as usual he never racked the wines in their nearly two years in barrel.  He didn’t add sulfur until a few months before bottling, and yet his wines are still completely fresh; some whites he describes as even having a tint of green.  The Lucien Le Moine 2009s across the board are beautifully pure and focused, with the exquisite harmony of truly great wines.

   

  •  "The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix opens with high-toned, floral aromatics that lead to hard candy, licorice and sweet, juicy cherries. The richness of the fruit wraps around the tannins all the way through to the subtle, haunting finish. This is gorgeous in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029." 91-93 Points Wine Advocate

  •  "A seductive nose of sandalwood, spice and very fresh red currant aromas gives way to moderately complex and relatively fine middle weight flavors that ooze a discreet minerality on the harmonious, sappy and understated finish. This is very Chambolle in basic character and really very pretty." 90-92 Points Burghound

  •  "Good deep red. Pungent, slightly high-toned, Musigny-like aromas of raspberry, creme de cassis crushed stone, white pepper and fresh blood, complicated by a white fruit note and lifted by a floral quality. Improbably precise for 2009, with classic Chambolle cut and verve to its piercing flavors of fresh red fruits, spices and flowers. Firm mineral grip gives superb vibrancy to the finish. These vines below Les Amoureuses clearly benefited from their more humid soil in 2009. A knockout in the making." 92-95 Points International Wine Cellar

• 2008 Vintage

  There is a big difference in how most people in Burgundy see 2008 and how Lucien Le Moine sees its 2008s.  In a typically unique perspective, Mounir Saouma believes 2008 is a great vintage in Burgundy, one of the greatest of the decade.  2008 was the third in a series of historically normal vintage conditions.  Over the last hundred years, on average the rainiest month in Burgundy has been June and the driest month has been September; rain in the summer is common, occurring more than half the time.  The light, fine skin of Pinot Noir benefits from the freshness in the summer, needs it, and it helps the fat Chardonnay on its way to maturity as well.  The idea that only the “modern” vintage – hot and dry – can be great is a big issue for Mounir.

  In June 2008, within a given week rain always alternated with hot sunny periods.  The results were small bunches of grapes that were getting mature while keeping acidity, and slowly ripening.  Ultimately, there was a naturally low yield, an excellent sign, with 20% fewer grapes than a normal year, providing sweet fruit and high levels of tannin.  Very importantly, Mounir believes that in recent times Burgundy has lost its simplicity to some extent – when you tasted the grapes in 2008, there was no issue with rot.  Most people looked at their vineyards, were terrified of the rot and pressed very lightly to get clean juice, only did short macerations with not a lot of lees, didn’t stir, and then fined or filtered to bottle clean wines. 

  Lucien Le Moine did the opposite.  They pressed hard, bringing a lot of lees into the wine.  To balance the high acidity and some of the unripe bunch areas due to the cool weather, they topped with fine lees every ten days instead of topping with wine.  They did not stir, and so the lees would take a full week to fall to the bottom of the barrel, slowly imparting complexity and richness.  For about five years, Lucien Le Moine has been the last producer in Burgundy to bottle, and they were again with the 2008 vintage.  Malolactic Fermentation was not as late as usual because of the lees that was added, and finished in April/May instead of June/July.  Lucien Le Moine has never never acidified or de-acidified, so while some people de-acidified 2008, they didn’t touch the wines, and watched them over the summer become sweeter, fatter and more balanced, more attractive.  They started bottling around May 2010, and finished beginning of October 2010, after the harvest of 2010. 

  Looking at surrounding vintages, the 2005 is ageable, full of body, massive, tannic, with high acidity.  2006 has almost late harvest flavor, very deep, beautiful maturity, and nice acidity.   2007 is transparent, the perfect example of terroir in Burgundy, but will not age perhaps as long as 2006.  The 2008s are going to be the year for people who care about Burgundy.  They will be appreciated the next two-three years, for their very fresh fruit and balanced bodies.  Then they will sleep for a few years, but not like 2005s which are so big they will need a long time to awaken.  The 2008s will come back as classic wines of Burgundy, but not in a spicy, sous-bois manner; they will be traditional, but have a little bit of flashy fruit.  A very particular combination. 

  Lastly, the particularity of the Lucien Le Moine 2008s – a lot of wines are cloudy due to the lees; make sure to stand them up before decanting. 
   

  • "The musky, narcissus-like notes on the nose of Le Moine’s two barrels of 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Hauts Doix almost rise to the level of stink, and are backed by intimations of cherry pit, tart cherry fruit, and chalk, all of which inform a palate that – like that of the corresponding Charmes – combines brightness with alluring textural tenderness. Dark suggestions of moss and humus lend mystery to the finish of this highly distinctive and decidedly decadent Pinot that ought to be worth following for a decade or longer. Saouma points out that wine from Hauts Doix seldom bears much resemblance to that of Amoureuses despite their virtual embrace, and says that a visit in high summer suddenly made him aware of how much more water is retained in the former, and that this was probably the source of the difference." 91-92 Points Wine Advocate

  • "Bright, deep red. An essence of Chambolle on the nose and palate: raspberry, rose petal, blood orange, crushed stone. Wonderfully vibrant and high-pitched on the palate, with ineffable inner-mouth perfume that reminded me of a great Amoureuses. A brilliantly delineated wine that leaves the palate vibrating with mineral dust." 92 Pionts International Wine Cellar

  • "There's something skinny and goth about this wine, the kind of Burgundy Lisbeth Sander might drink on the lam. It starts out with simple strawberry ripeness, turns a bit gamey, and then ends with finesse and dark power. The tight structure should carry it well as the wine ages." 91 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine

• 2007 Vintage

  As Mounir Saouma says, “2007 saw a fresh summer – when we say fresh summer, we mean well-balanced rain and sunny days.   There were cool but not cold days, days with some rain and sun, but not exaggerated either way.  And you see in the wines there is beautiful acidity, but not as much as 2008, and nice sweetness, but not as much as 2006.” 

   

  This character of mid-way but not extreme in many areas resulted in wines that took a long time to reveal their nature.  “The wines started fruity and the tannins were firm, and slowly we started seeing a kind of melding between sweetness and acidity after the malolactic a year later; we started seeing the real character of the wines after 14 months.  

   

  This development of the vintage is the reason that 2007 was the latest bottling Lucien Le Moine has ever done, and why they were the last producer in all of Burgundy to bottle.  Typically Lucien Le Moine starts bottling in January or February; in 2007 they started in February, but the majority of bottling took place from May to September.  Mounir aged all his 2007 wines on their lees, without sulfur, and never racked.   

   

  Mounir compares 2007 and 2006 a lot; they will both be vintages that are approachable and will last, and their technical numbers are similar, but they are physically and aromatically in completely different worlds.  “2006 is more about sweetness and for some people a heavier character; 2007 is more about freshness.  We will enjoy 2007, but it doesn’t take anything from the aging. 

   

  Some general commentaries on the Crus in 2007:  for people who love freshness and silkiness, with tannins that melt away, the Vosne-Romanées, Volnays, Chambolle-Musignys, and Morey-Saint-Denis show ethereal balance and almost transparent tannins.  For those that think 2007 is a light and easy year, the Gevrey-Chambertins, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommards and Cortons will show them depth and power.  

  • "Here the nose is cut from the same cloth but is slightly less ripe and the underlying fruit runs more to the blue side of the spectrum while introducing rich, round and generous medium-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of detail with firm tannins buffered by plenty of extract on the delicious and elegant finish where a beguiling trace of minerality appears." 89-92 Points Burghound

  • "Good deep red. Slightly wild aromas of dark fruits, smoky minerals, herbs, spices and crushed stone. Serious and structured wine, with pepper, spice and earth notes giving it a drier aspect than most of these 2007s. Not the smoothest wine in the portfolio but the tannins are essentially ripe and gentle." 89-92 Points International Wine Cellar

• 2006 Vintage

  Mounir Saouma’s approach to the 2006 vintage differed from many. His growers picked late, allowing the fine September weather to draw out the maturity of the grapes and compensate for a cool, wet August.  It was a risk, and not a typical vintage for Mounir, who usually harvests earlier than most, giving him the good acid levels he likes.  The reds express the typicity of their terroirs, and will be enjoyable to drink earlier than the 2005’s, but also possess the heft and structure to age nicely. 

  • "There are dark suggestions of underlying meatiness to compliment the brightness of tart berry and chalky mineral cast; an impressive sense of underlying density; and a finish of fine, bittersweet, relatively austere penetration. Offers promise of at least 6-8 years of fascination..." 93 Points Wine Advocate

  • "Bright, dark red. Pungent aromas of raspberry, blueberry and crushed stone;Sweet but quite tight on the palate, with terrific inner-mouth lift and perfume to the precise flavors of dark berries, licorice and stone. Quite bracing and perfumed on the very long finish." 91-93 Points International Wine Cellars