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16 April 2010 News

The Wine Advocate‘s Neal Martin is on the ground in Bordeaux for En Primeur 2009, and has some high praise for Château Margaux. He also has a lengthy interview with Paul Pontellier. According to Pontellier:

The 2009 is a special combination of power and softness, the most concentrated and densest Chateau Margaux that we have ever made…even more than 2005…much softer than 2005. There were no excesses in 2009, yes, a drought but not a severe one. The temperatures were average with just a couple of hot days and a couple of cool nights. The density of the 2009 reminds me of 2005, but the texture reminds me of something supple and sweeter. The best lots of Cabernet Sauvignon remind me of the 1990, but that wine does not have the same concentration. Perhaps one can think of the 2009 as having the density of 2005 with the softness of 1990?

And the wines? At the top of their game, and the best from the appellation.

Château Margaux 2009
“A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, close to the average proportions of the last 10 years. The final alcohol comes in at 13.2-13.3%. An extremely alluring bouquet: blackberry, cassis and violets, your quintessential Margaux really, but cloaked in a sense of sensuality and sumptuousness that is rarely seen. Very fine definition with touches of cold limestone coming through. The palate is brilliantly poised with filigree tannins, breathtaking delineation and focus. There is immense intensity here, the energy of the channel with a crisp, taut finish. Wonderful length.” 96-98 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate

Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux 2009
“This has a lucid purple colour. A plush, sensuous nose with black cherry, cassis and violets: very pure, in some ways reminding me of a combination of the 1996 and 2006 but with more panache and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, quite edgy on the entry, very good acidity here, a certain symmetry that perhaps has been missing in recent vintages. The finish is very natural, showing very fine minerality and poise. This is superb.” 92-94 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate