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PETRUS

28 April 2010 News

“2009 may turn out to be the finest vintage I have tasted in 32 years of covering Bordeaux.” That’s quite a statement coming from Robert Parker, but it solidifies the general consensus that is brewing among the wine press and trade. The 2009 Bordeaux vintage was one of the greatest on record, and gave many properties their best wines ever (these wines are denoted with an asterisk, “*”). Among the standouts were, of course, Châteaux Pétrus, Margaux, and Cos d’Estournel, but also Château La Fleur-Pétrus, a VINTUS exclusive, “a mind-boggling effort.” Full reviews are below the jump.

Pomerol

Château Pétrus 2009, Pomerol
“Harvested between September 17 and the beginning of October, the 2009 Petrus reminds me of what the 1982 tasted like at a similar age. Sweet tannins along with extraordinarily pure mulberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of licorice and truffle are found in this 2009 in addition to a voluptuous mouthfeel, an unctuous texture, and, for Petrus, relatively high alcohol of 14.2%. Stuffed, rich, and creamy-textured with a full-bodied, powerful, exuberant personality, it should be approachable in a decade, and last for 40-50 years.” 96-100 Wine Advocate

Château La Fleur-Pétrus 2009, Pomerol
“A mind-boggling effort, this is the finest La Fleur Petrus I have ever tasted. Layers and layers of black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, truffles, and earth are found in this dense ruby/purple-colored elixir. With extraordinary purity, decent acidity, melted tannins, and massive fruit along with elegance and precision, it should drink well for three decades or more. It is an amazing effort! Bravo to Christian Moueix and his team.” 96-98+* Wine Advocate

Château Providence 2009, Pomerol
“This masculine-styled Pomerol exhibits notes of iron, earth, vitamins, black cherries, and blackberries. It is reminiscent of a Trotanoy in terms of personality and appellation character. Full-bodied and super-dense with a boatload of tannin as well as unbridled power, richness, and depth, this 2009 will require patience (5-7 years), but should last for three decades or more.” 92-95* Wine Advocate

Saint Émilion

Château La Serre 2009, Saint Émilion
“A sleeper of the vintage, this long-forgotten estate has turned out a dense ruby/purple-colored, silky smooth 2009 offering notes of spring flowers, black cherries, raspberries, and spice. It should provide enormous hedonistic pleasures for a decade or more.” 88-90 Wine Advocate

Margaux

“Paul Pontallier told me they had never had such levels of concentration and tannin as they did in 2009, exceeding anything they ever produced since the Mentzelopoulos family purchased this property in 1978. Pontallier believes 1996 is the closest stylistically, but 2009 is significantly more concentrated than that vintage. I do not disagree because tasting the second wine, Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, demonstrates that the 2009 is far superior to almost every Chateau Margaux made in the fifties, sixties, and seventies, except for the 1961 and 1953.”

Château Margaux 2009. Margaux
“Thirty-five percent of the crop went into the 2009 Chateau Margaux, composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level of 13.3% is high, but not excessively so. A wine such as this is like the quintessence of terroir. A super, uber-concentrated perfume of creme de cassis and flowers cascades across the palate with a lightness of being despite massive concentration, a sumptuous personality, and an unctuous texture. I have never tasted a Chateau Margaux quite like this. It should be relatively drinkable at an early age, yet will last for 50-100 years. Oh my!” 98-100 Wine Advocate

Pavillion Rouge 2009, Margaux
“The dark ruby/purple-hued 2009 Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux offers a big, sweet kiss of spring flowers intermixed with blueberries and blackberries, a silky texture, and a dense, concentrated, but seamless mouthfeel. This glorious wine should drink well for 20 or more years.” 91-93 Wine Advocate

Pavillon Blanc 2009, Margaux
92-94 Wine Advocate

Saint Estèphe

Chateau Cos d’Estournel 2009, Saint Estèphe
“The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted … in the world! An extraordinary effort I tasted on two separate occasions, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Franc has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but a remarkably normal pH of 3.69. Kudos to Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier for this amazing wine made from yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. It will be a legendary claret that should last for 50-60 years. A black/purple color is accompanied by aromas of graphite, ink, creme de cassis, blackberries, cedar, and incense. Full-bodied and unctuously textured, with an ethereal personality, tons of nuances, and a burgeoning complexity, it is an enormously well-endowed, fresh, perfectly balanced tour de force in winemaking. As mentioned above, it should drink well for 50-60 years. This wine possesses this vintage’s classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision – largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Medoc.” 98-100* Wine Advocate