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4 March 2016 News

How would you describe a Burgundy climat to a friend? Jane Anson of Decanter provides a template and uses the example of a single appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise to argue that there is a particular ethos in the area that helped to secure UNESCO World Heritage status in July 2015. See below for her review of Domaine Chanson’s Clos des Feves 2013.

“A monopole of Domaine Chanson, and one of the larger climats at 3.8 hectares, set on the mid slope with clay and limestone soils. This has been singled out as a place of particular quality since 1728. The oak is evident on the first nose, tightening the structure, but after several minutes in the glass the character of the wine itself becomes clear. Red fruits and sense of florality rise up on the finish with an attractive point of freshness. Would benefit from carafing. Complex but subtle.

Domaine Chanson Beaune 1er cru Clos des Marconnets 2013

Similar altitude but with northern exposure and a touch more limestone. Domaine Chanson owns around 40% of this vineyard, and gives both around three weeks maceration with very little punching down of the skins. Very different aromatically from the first wine of the pairing, still structured, but this time a touch of bitterness on final. I should qualify that by saying I mean bitter in the sense of coffee and a touch of tarry smoke. The tannins are clearer here than in the first, against needs oxygen and ageing, quite backwards right now but with great potential.”

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