An article in Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages – “Rebellion and the Meaning of Terroir” – raises some different viewpoints when it comes to accepted wisdom about terroir. Mounir Saouma is quoted in a discussion about how Meursault is often regarded as buttery compared to Puligny-Montrachet, a notion that many producers disagree with:
“Nobody who tastes Coche-Dury, Roulot, Ente, Pierre Morey, Fichet, or a dozen other top producers of Meursault would dream of calling their wines buttery. While there is a tendency to fullness of texture, these wines have a firmness and tension that makes them far ‘steelier’ to my mind than many a floral, fruity Puligny.
When Mounir Saouma of Lucien Le Moine says ‘Meursault is mineral, Puligny is sweet’, people raised in the buttery-steely tradition boggle and splutter, but this is in fact a wholly accurate description of his own wines, and indeed of many others grown in the same spot.”
Click here to read the full article.